Gibraltar

June 23, 2026

Well we moved from the African to the European continent, but really it’s just 21km away, and so well connected in history and culture. 

History

I so enjoy learning the history of a place while living there.  I always thought Gibraltar was famous for its geology.  I was wrong.

Really, it’s the military significance that mattered most here. That big rock is a fortress too solid to knock down with cannons. Since the 18th century, tunnels have been built, and big guns have been installed in it.

Since the 18th century, this tiny place (a few square kilometers) was part of the United Kingdom.  Since that time more than once, there have been attempts to conquer it.  All have failed.  It still belongs to the UK.

Next month, On July 19, Gibraltar will become part of the EU.  The border control with Spain will go away.  It will become part of the Schengen zone. 

And so, I’m confused. During the American Revolution, the UK successfully defended  The Great Siege of Gibraltar against Spain and France. A seige that lasted decades.  During WWII, Gibraltar was a very important asset the Allies used to win this war. 

More recently, Franco closed the border between Spain and Gibraltar in 1969, hoping to crush the Gibraltar economy, then take control.  He gave up this strategy after 13 years.  Gibraltar thrived.

So what now?  Just give it away?

If I remember correctly, the UK exited the EU in 2020.  If Gibraltar becomes part of the EU, will it also remain part of the UK?  Or is the UK simply giving away its prize fortress?

Gibraltar Now

One Harbor, One International Airport, and One Big Rock.  No room for much else.  Yet there is a population of 35 – 40,000 people living here, not counting the wild monkeys

I thought it quite bizare that upon arriving in Gibraltar by bicycle, I was encouraged to cross the runway – an active runway, for the International Airport.

It’s not an option.  Everyone, except motor vehicles crosses this runway.  There is a gate that closes frequently when a plane is coming.  It works like a RR crossing.

Also there is a lot of foreign labor that comes from Spain every day. (~15,000).  Both the salaries and cost of living is higher in Gibraltar than Spain.  So, many people live in Spain and work in Gibraltar

I am told they are currently working on a dialect which is part Spanish and part English.  This is unique to Gibraltar.  It is called Gibberish.

On the way out of Morocco

Another cycling story.  In order to catch our morning ferry back across the Stait of Gibraltar, I was up before the sunrise pedaling the last 6km to the ferry. 

In the side streets I startled a group of three dogs.  They dropped what they were carrying and scattered.  As I got closer, I could see it was a chicken.  I think it was still alive, but clearly not able to move on its own.

Do you suppose these dogs were helping their fellow animal get to a veterinary hospital?

No, I didn’t think you would.  More likely they had invited the chicken home for breakfast.